Sturmey-Archer right-side axle nuts have a long, cylindrical projection, with a curved lip for the indicator chain. The cylindrical part had two viewing holes to facilitate visual checking of the cable adjustment. Some time in the 1960's, they changed to a two-piece system, with a plain hex nut (the same as on the left side) and a separate cylindrical nut, knurled on the outer end. Sometime in the 1970's, they went back to the one-piece design.

Hubs with 2-piece indicator spindles, such as the AM, AC, ASC, FC, FM, FW and SW used a one-piece right nut, but without the viewing holes. These hubs used a special left nut that resembled the conventional right nut, but which lacked the rounded interior lip for the chain. These nuts were designed to protect the left end of the two-piece indicator spindle, and to allow visual adjustment by observing the position of the left end of the spindle against the end of the axle. A common cause of malfunction of these hubs is that people get the left and right nuts reversed, so the indicator chain hangs up on the sharp edge of the nut that belongs on the left.

Older Raleighs, those with forged front drop outs, used a special axle nut with a narrow rounded section toward the hub. This rounded section fit through the axle washer, and into a recess of the forged drop out, to provide positive front wheel retention.

Later Raleighs used conventional nuts, and provided a shoulder on the outer face of the cone for wheel retention. The stamped dropouts had a keyhole shaped axle opening, and the shoulder on the cone fit into the round part of the opening. Some years used plain hex nuts with separate flat washers, other years used track nuts, domed and decorated with a red "R" on the end.  

Older Sturmey-Archer hubs used beautifully made forged serrated washers between the axle nut and the fork end. These older washers are easily identified by the knurled edges. These were used in conjunction with separate, stamped anti-rotation washers, which should go on the inside of the fork end.

Intermediate models used cheaper, stamped serrated washers.

Later (and current) models use rather nice forged combination serrated/anti-rotation washers.  

Sturmey-Archer's term for the clamp-on cable housing stop usually mounted on the top tube was "fulcrum." The fulcrum clamp held a separate sleeve which served as the socket for the cable. This was a sort of ferrule, with a flange on one end to keep it from sliding through the fulcrum clamp. It was slotted to facilitate cable installation, and had a flat side which rested against the frame tube. Earlier fulcrum sleeves were metal, later versions are plastic. This was one of the first Sturmey-Archer parts where plastic replaced metal.

The metal ones last forever, but the plastic ones are easily crushed and ruined.

Until fairly recently, all Sturmey-Archer hubs were designed for oil lubrication. An oil cap, or, in Sturmey-Archer terminology, a "lubricator" was set into the hub shell. The actual cap assembly screwed into a threaded hole in the shell.

Earlier versions uses a hinged metal cap, but this was replaced in the late '50s or '60s by a plastic cap with a captive plug. This was one case where the plastic part was an improvement over the metal one, because they made a better seal, preventing the oil from dripping out.

Tip:

There have been several different shift controls over the years:

• The oldest design is the quadrant shifter, a very simple top-tube mounted lever with a spring-loaded pin that fitted into different holes along its side, according to the gear selected. Moving the lever to the right pulled the pin out of the hole, and allowed the lever to move. These are mostly seen on bikes from the '30s and earlier.
• The basic trigger. These triggers had a metal band running in each direction around the handlebar, connected by a short screw and special nut below the handlebar.
• The window-type trigger had a small round hole in the top plate, through which, depending on the gear selected, you could read the letters: "H" (High) "N" (Normal) "L" (Low) and "B" (Base) The more common variety is marked "3 or 4" speed.
• Later basic trigger, in 3-speed or 4-speed versions. These, and later models, had the handlebar clamp running only from the upper surface of the trigger, around the handlebar. The screw that secured it to the handlebar ran through the body of the trigger.
• No window trigger with clear plastic cover.
• No window trigger with opaque cover and plastic tip on the lever.
• An alternate option in the '60s was a twist-grip shifter (though I've never seen one of these on a Raleigh Sports.) These worked very poorly.
• During the wheelie bike craze in the 1960s, very large top-tube shifters were made, designed to look like the gear shift of a sports car.

There are three common colors for older Raleighs:

• Black.
• "Bronze Green" a dark metallic green.
• "Coffee" a dark metallic brown.